I’m Back!!!!

Turns out I really miss sewing, life took over a bit but now I’m living with my other half in our own place I have free run to do as I want and make as much mess as I need, I’ve even been teaching him to sew!  20160916_133016

I’ve started drawing, focusing on what i want to make and i already have a massive list. It feels good to be back, blogging and sewing.

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Pattern Drafting

Spent my first sunny day off this year drafting patterns, I usually start with inspiration that will help me with the design I want.

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I determine where the seam lines are in the outfit so that i am able to draw the shapes out, creating the basics for the pattern.

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I then place a piece of fabric on top of my mannequin, pinning it down so it is as crease free as you can get it and draw the basic shape on, following the binding lines on the mannequin.

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I then cut out the shape, leaving extra to the sides of the shape and draw a more detailed shape.

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Jane Austen Festival

The Jane Austen Festival was really amazing, due to family circumstances i wasn’t able to finish my costumes but me and my partner had a lovely time. Besides visiting all the sites we ran around all over Bath just to follow the festival which has resulted in a video i have had to edit due to my constant swearing… which i’ve put down to my excitement.

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I wrote this Blog post a week ago thinking it wouldn’t take very long for me to upload the video i made of the promenade, turns out it took forever, but it’s finished now and here it is.

The Man in the Iron Mask

I wrote earlier that i am planning to make a 1660’s corset, well i found the film The Man in the Iron mask the other day and there is plenty of inspiration for dresses inside, not much underwear on show but the dresses are lovely.

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a nice view of the back of their dresses.

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loving the yellow and frills

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…the gold embroidery

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the lady to the left in blue, i like the detail on her dress

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far right, the detail on that gold is lovely, like a sweet wrapper lol

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i’m really liking the peach dress in the centre, everything about it is lovely.

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i like this colour alot, the detail reminds me of the tv series ‘Charles II The Power and the Passion’

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i don’t like the fabric used on her’s, yet the construction is perfect

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can never have enough view from behind, you forget thats just as important

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more perfect!!!

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don’t think the real Anne of Austria would have worn that dull of clothes, yet nice to see from this era, don’t see that much.

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nice and sombre

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with glittering jewels

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poor people……… i’m sure i would have been one of them, there costumes are mixed

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different corsets

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lady on the left looks like she has stepped out of a field from the 1560’s, lady on the right with red skirt could be 18th century

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they could be standing outside versailles shouting up at Marie Antionette

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LOVE

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LOVE LOVE

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LOVE LOVE

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I don’t know about the hooks and eyes, the other women were laced up ?!?

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her smocking on her chemise

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lush colour

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and embroidery

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John malkovich working the shirt

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16th century masked ball, yeah

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and another

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some clearly visible tights

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i like hers, the only women not in 16th century fancy dress

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some very suave elizabethan men

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loving the lady in the middle, really in to it

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some added renaissance ladies

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and more

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some nice big elizabethan ruffs

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more spanish inspiration

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some royal armour

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New Year, New Dresses

so… i had a reallllllllllly long break, i was feeling really overwhelmed with studying and this, and i have started the Duke of Edinburgh award so that should be cool, but i am back on it now. before Xmas i finished my Regency long sleeve dress, Lydia and the undergarments to go with it as well.

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I made pockets, but then changed my mind 😀

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I’m not 100 % happy with how the sleeves turned out but otherwise i quite happy with it, might even dare to take it with me to the Jane Austen Festival this September.

17th Century Women’s Smock

I was looking at my collection of photos on my computer and on pinterest to determine the different shapes of smocks in this century (and all the others), you wouldn’t think there was many, i was surprised to find at least four.

At the beginning of the century the fashion was still for the large french farthingale’s and big collars usually associated with Queen Elizabeth, the neckline at the front was low and quiet high at the back, to support the large collar.

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The smock isn’t visible in any of these, indicating that it follows along the edge and fits very closely against the corset. I also noticed from the same few decades that young girls dress had a straighter bodice line, perhaps that was more modest for children and they eventually graduated to the more risky bust lines later on?

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During the same early decades of the century into the 1640’s and 1650’s there were some women who were far more concerned with being conservative, covering up almost every inch of flesh, you can almost see these these women rallying behind Cromwell in a few years to come.

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They would have been wearing something very similar to the smock below.

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As the swinging 60’s rolled in and everyone began to enjoy themselves and drink themselves into oblivion, bodice lines began to move down rapidly, slipping down over the shoulder and just holding the bust in.

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The smocks were also sometimes visible just over the edge of the dress as well as bulging out the carefully cut holes in the sleeves. The smock lightly resembled the chemises worn in the 1840’s by Victorian women, except their large, puffy sleeves that were heavily gathered and were always just visible below the sleeve. The corsets of  the era demonstrated the loose structure over the body yet were heavily boned so ironically didn’t leave much room for movement.

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Smocks during the end of the decade began to return to previous shape at the beginning of the century, yet they keep the large puffy sleeves underneath and returned to the hard, boned bodices of the beginning of the century.

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Downton Abbey Season 3 Episode 8 – Finale

There’s going to be a game of cricket, everyone is very excited and the men are all very competitive about it. Downstairs the end is nigh for Thomas, hes rather a broken man at the fought of all hes losing and to add insult to injury, O’Brien convinces Jimmy it would be best if he told the police, god forbid Thomas should attack again! :/.

There’s a new visitor to Downton, lady Rose, or rather the dowager Countess’s house as the young, naive 18 year old will be staying with her auntie.

Anna and Bates meanwhile finally begin to enjoy there marital bliss with there own, rather dingy house, which they soon make up to shape. As a wife, Anna can no longer work at the great house and is replaced by a new maid, yet shes so unimportant we never get to see her. Mr Bates in all his martial bliss doesn’t forget what he has so recently left and can’t help but feel bad for Thomas as he watches him go further down hill, and soon sets himself to task to find out what is really going on.

Edith meanwhile is blossoming in to the perfect journalist and is attracting the attentions of her editor, yet perhaps secretly enjoying these, like the shrewd detective goes on a mission to find out all about his life. Alongside her trampling’s through London, Lady Rose decides she wants to come as well, to create a “surprise” or something along that line for her Mother. Edith isn’t so convinced that she is the sweet and innocent girl she makes herself out to be and is glad when Matthew wishes to come as well on his own business for a bit of support. So they all go happily trotting off to Aunt Rosemond’s and leave Lady Rose to her own devices.

In the meantime Matthew visits a doctor as he is still convinced that he is the reason the they are not conceiving, however, surprising bumps in to Mary there, who admits all her secret excursions to him. Turns out she is the problem and after a small operation should be perfectly fine to conceive, to the great relief of Matthew. However on another, much seedier part of town, Lady Rose is rumbled after leaving her scarf in a cab with a married man in a jazz club by Edith, Matthew and Rosemond. Matthew demands that she return or he will tell all, so Lady Rose leaves as swiftly as she came leaving her lover to his “horrid wife”.

Back at Downton Bates convinces Thomas that they can take down O’Brien together, Thomas stunned that Bates would want to help him discovers help comes from a man who also knows what it is like to be out of control of your life. Thomas tells Bates a secret, and if you have been watching since season One you will instantly remember one particularly terrible thing O’Brien did will her ladyships soap. O’Brien of course horrified, returns and convinces Jimmy that to ring the police would be the wrong thing, however Alfred is listening and decides to take matters into his own hands.

At the all important game of cricket, Robert has convinced Tom to play, only in exchange for agreement in the updating of Downton’s house management and all goes swimmingly on the lovely summers day. Mosley has been boasting all episode of his knowledge of cricket, yet sadly it turns out that that is the end of his experience of cricket as he is a terrible player. Thomas, Matthew and Tom all do very well everything looks to be going perfectly until the police show up. Alfred has rung them and Robert has to save the day, agreeing that Thomas should stay and having a very cavalier attitude to something of a hot topic pre-1960’s. Alfred is convinced in the end, Thomas becomes under butler, Jimmy 1st footman and Bates is back in his position of valet; Tom has confided that he wants to stay at Downton and let his daughter grow up there, to the great delight of the Countess.

It all ended on such a lovely, happy note that i am sure there will be dumps along the Xmas special, i soooooo hope Edith gets it on with the Editor and will get to see little Sybil a bit older. But for the meantime i am just have to content myself with the season three box-set and screen capturing all the lovely costumes.