Pattern Drafting

Spent my first sunny day off this year drafting patterns, I usually start with inspiration that will help me with the design I want.

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I determine where the seam lines are in the outfit so that i am able to draw the shapes out, creating the basics for the pattern.

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I then place a piece of fabric on top of my mannequin, pinning it down so it is as crease free as you can get it and draw the basic shape on, following the binding lines on the mannequin.

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I then cut out the shape, leaving extra to the sides of the shape and draw a more detailed shape.

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Nell

Introducing Nell, my 1660’s ‘protestant whore’ as the real Nell proclaimed in the BBC’s Charles II The Power and the Passion. She’s without  any sleeves at the mo as i fell out with them mid production, but she will have some at some point.

Using inspiration from some of the ladies of Charles II’s court i started by making the chemise, puffy sleeves and all. Next time i will raise the sleeves so the chemise is lower and less visible. I think my right sleeve is starting to loose it’s puffy-ness and well :/

I then stitch the skirt together, I’m not quite certain yet whether i used to much fabric or not? but anyway that went rather well and i stitched the design on with the sewing machine.

 

I had a bit of difficulty making the bodice, not getting the right shape for the arms, but it worked out all right and the right shapes are starting to flood back into my memory now. I’m hoping i will finish her sleeves later this week, while i also intend to make a 1860’s dress when the fabric arrives.

 

Miss Virginia Lachasse

 

I first spotted her in the V & A’s Golden Age of Couture book that accompanies the exhibition. I visited the V & A at this time but sadly  i didn’t go in and see it; I absolutely love all her little clothes, they are all perfect little miniatures of real garments created by the big fashion houses of the day.

I did a little more research on the fashion dolls i posted a while ago on inspiration and found that they belonged to this little travelling group who go round the world exhibiting different styles of high fashion.

As well as doing replica’s of fashion’s from history they also recreate the fashion of the day, they recreate everything down to the tiny shoes!